sorry.. i thought you meant the language that gnome was written in.
however i`ve meda a little progress in the fonts. it turns out that the fonts are getting ugly when i use: "Subpixel smoothing (LCDs)" and are looking better when i use: ""Best shapes" and i do have a LCD monitor!!
but i have no idea how to do those font hints that you describe in the howto.. that doesn`t work the same in fedora as in Ubuntu.. same with the fonts.conf file.. i can`t even adjust it because X won`t start when i do adjust it.